The half-pension menu is usually more limited than the regular one.
Many Dordogne hotels offer an option called half pension, which covers the room, breakfast and dinner. Rates: All rates are for two people staying in high season (generally mid-June through mid-September). Driving from Paris to Souillac via the autoroute (a toll highway) takes approximately five hours. You might also take the high-speed TGV train from Paris to Bordeaux (three hours), or a regular train to Brive-la-Gaillarde (four hours) or Souillac (41/2 hours), and then rent a car. The flights from Paris-Orly to Bordeaux are about an hour long you can rent a car in Bordeaux and drive to Perigueux in about 90 minutes. Getting there: The Dordogne River valley is within the area known as Perigord, and the French use the terms interchangeably. Be careful not to fall into the stream after you indulge in a few glasses of Bergerac.
With what you've saved on your room, you can treat yourself to a meal at the acclaimed restaurant, Au Vieux Moulin the chef is Annick's husband, Georges Soulié.
If your room faces the stream, you'll be treated to the sound of water rushing by, which would be idyllic if it weren't for the traffic on the road during high season (it calms down after 7 p.m.). The rooms are simple, but the nice draperies give them a little personality. The small, family-run hotel has a lot of charm thanks to co-owner Annick Soulié, who believes that her job is "to make people happy." The old stone building is a vine-covered, 17th-century mill. de Laugerie, 011-33/5-53-06-97-07,, $136-$239, half pension is from $286 for two people (half pension is mandatory from mid-July through August). Many of the ingredients for the gourmet meals served in Les Glycines' dining room come from the enormous potager, or kitchen garden. The rooms that have a view cost more, but for the extra €30, you'll be able to contemplate the splendid garden, pool and landscape first thing in the morning. What started out as a 19th-century postal relay has been turned into an assortment of inviting rooms decorated in a soothing palette of cream, taupe and beige. Hovering on the outskirts, Les Glycines is a hotel that offers stylish comfort in a low-key, no-pressure kind of way. Les Eyzies is a bustling town that sells itself as Cro-Magnon Central because it's an ideal base for visiting the area's prehistoric sites.
One of the rooms has a small private terrace, so book well ahead unlike most of these hotels, Le Bellevue is open year-round. (You might even forget that the Lascaux Cave, home of France's most famous prehistoric paintings, is just a five-minute walk away.) Though none of the five rooms gets the view face-on, you can take in the scenery over café au lait in the breakfast room or simply plop down on the hillside at any time of day. Not only that, but the setting is appealingly serene - there's nothing around but fields and farmland. Overlooking umpteen miles of rolling hills and the tiny town of Montignac, these basic accommodations offer a view that your average luxury hotel would kill for.
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